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Home in the South PDF Print E-mail
Written by Robert Katrin   
Friday, 05 February 2010 19:31

In Thomas Wolfe’s Look Homeward Angel, Oliver Gant, after learning stonecutting in Baltimore, moves to the Reconstructed South and stays sober long enough to meet his first wife. Eighteen months later he’s relapsed, and she’s died of a hemorrhage. Rootless, adrift, and scared of dying of tuberculosis, he sets out westward seeking anonymity and ends up in the mountain-valley town of Altamont (Asheville, North Carolina). He wonders: Why here?

I immigrated to North Carolina thirty-three years ago after I was laid off during New York City’s financial crisis and my girlfriend was moving here to be closer to her mother.

I helped her move, driving a big U-Haul full of her belongings from the Long Island town of Sagaponack to Durham and then down Rt. 1 (the Jefferson Davis Highway) to Southern Pines in the Sandhills, a rural region of ancient dunes near Pinehurst, the famous golf resort.

After arriving I stayed a couple of weeks and then returned to Brooklyn. Over the winter my girlfriend and I talked about our future. I didn’t know if or when I’d get my job back; we missed each other, so I decided to join her.

I’d never lived anywhere else and, unprepared for provincial small-town life, I went into culture shock. Within six months, although my girl wasn’t happy about it, I decided to go back home. So I packed, rented a car, and was driving back to the city on I-85 on a clear, starry October night when I had what can only be described as a mystical experience. Something, I think it was God, told me to go back to Southern Pines. I did and I’ve been here ever since.

Living here has brought me both gifts and afflictions. The Lord giveth and taketh away, works in mysterious ways, and it’s said that everything happens for a reason, but sometimes I’ve wondered if Descartes was right when he posed God as an evil deceiver. God’s gifts come with strings attached.

Every spring the thick, brittle leaves of the magnolia near my driveway drop, hitting the asphalt with a crack. When the wind blows you hear them scraping, and if you step on one it crunches. After a shower, piles of leaves heaped all over town emanate brown liquor reeking of primordial swamp. When the trees bloom they have large, white blossoms most people find attractive but I see as ungainly. They’re short-lived and languishing under their own weight; they’ll yellow, flop over, and die.

It’s also the time of year my windows are open before the heat sets in, and the large Presbyterian church around the corner sometimes broadcasts hymns after tolling the hour and I have no choice but to listen to them. My parents were French-Mexican, Catholic and Russian, Jewish. After living here for a decade I found a job I loved and started attending conferences. The proceedings always started with a prayer to Jesus, common in the Bible Belt, but that I never found appropriate.

I met my girlfriend at the Zen Studies Society in Manhattan, but after we married—she was raised Episcopalian—we made a foray into local religion. It was a social initiative, an attempt to blend in to the community, but I always felt like a stranger in a strange land. There were fewer immigrants in those days, and what appeared on the surface as a friendly community was also set in its ways, class bound, and parochial.

North Carolina was a red state until Obama, although historically more progressive than the rest of the South. It has some of the largest military bases in the country, and I live a short distance from Fort Bragg. I’ve been apolitical most of my life, except during the Vietnam War and since the advent of the Iraq War, the onslaught of flag-waving, and the local military buildup. I found myself dispensing antiwar, liberal views in a forest of conservatism. Years ago I wrote a wry letter to the local newspaper, The Pilot, complaining about the 82nd Airborne’s cannons rattling my windows. The responses to my letter characterized me as little less than a traitor.

I want to say this without sounding bigoted. There are good people living here and even if they don’t know you they have a seemingly benevolent need to wave at you from their cars. In New York City you never made eye contact on the subway and never waved or smiled at anybody you didn’t know.

Recently, on my way back to North Carolina from northern Virginia on Amtrak, as we approached Rocky Mount, I experienced an internal smile as I looked out on the familiar countryside. When we stopped in Raleigh I observed a family from Boston on their way to Orlando. The dad, covered in Celtics logos, affectionately called his son stupid, and I winced; the people appeared so crude. When I lived in Brooklyn years ago they would have sounded like everyone else but living here has changed me.

It took a long time, but I was inoculated with a slow-drip titration of Southern culture and civility and fell in love with North Carolina and maybe even this illiberal, hybrid resort town. Along the way, I’ve developed a yen for iced tea and bourbon, and given a choice, would eat a biscuit as soon as a bagel.

These days I want to put a wall around North Carolina. The heavy immigration started in the 80s but attracting tourists to the state has been developing since the late 1800s. North Carolina, formerly known as the “Rip Van Winkle” state, has become urbanized, suburbanized, and more diversified. As Thomas Wolfe believed about his beloved birthplace, Asheville, degrees of native charm and culture have suffered, and much of the prime land in the state continues to be broken up for upscale resorts and developments.

There are things I admire about Southern culture and things I don’t, but I don’t want the South to lose its stubborn, inimitable soul. Right now I’m working hard to understand North Carolina, its history and people, because I want to come to peace with living here, but I still wonder. Why here?

 
They: Latinos in North Carolina PDF Print E-mail
Written by Robert J. McCarthy   
Thursday, 21 January 2010 15:07

They: Latinos in North Carolina
A Personal Essay
By Bob McCarthy

Senora Gavilan arrives with her baby at the hospital business office where I volunteer. Mounting medical bills have driven her here. She appears tired, the twists in her single, black braid loosened, perhaps a visual into her state of mind. She responds to my efforts when I greet her, guide her to the office, and assist her in filling out the application for aid, each time with a smiling “gracias.”

I serve as a Spanish interpreter, “mas o menos” (more or less) I always say, adding, “mas menos que mas.” It usually draws a smile, if not a laugh, from nervous lips. Three years before I retired, I decided to learn Spanish. More than an oft-deferred life goal, I wanted to help. Latinos are a community presence in Henderson, North Carolina, many of them speaking little or no English.

Sra. Gavilan’s handshake is mild, she wears a floral perfume, and her voice is low-pitched, slightly hoarse, and warm. It is the voice, as it always is, that tips me over, that cinches the meeting of individuals. Whatever I might be for her, she is a distinct person for me, one who leans forward and engages my eyes when she speaks. We go from there, working together to complete our complementary tasks.

Learning she is eligible for help, her eyes tear. Her gratitude swells when I insist upon carrying her daughter as I escort Sra. Gavilan back to her well-traveled Chevy Blazer. A quick glance at the baby reveals two staring black eyes over a puddling brown smile. Teeth lie in the future. I wonder if the baby senses her mother’s relief?

I am always amazed at the burden of trust people like Sra. Gavilan must shoulder even to come to the office. The overwhelming majority are indocumentados who don’t speak English. Discovery has to be a constant fear.

I’ve often heard Latinos dismissively referred to as they. But for me, Sra. Gavilan is no longer (if she ever was) a part of a faceless grouping. She is who she is, a human being with a unique personality and an intelligence ready to engage. And in that, she enriches my life even as I try to make hers a bit less burdensome.

Pass a construction site in Henderson, you will likely find Latinos working. Where at one time there were set-asides excluding Latinos—masonry conceded to blacks, finish carpentry to whites—that is changing. They increasingly do everything that involves labor, what I call real work. Agriculture, lawn and property maintenance, manufacturing (what little there is) —they are there.

My wife and I contracted to have the exterior of our house painted. Jorge—“call me George”—and his crew, Latinos all, arrived and went to work. Between reversed ball caps and trimmed mustaches, their eyes rarely strayed from the task at hand, even when conversing.
The white contractor told me, “I’ve been in the business over twenty years, tried all kinds. These guys are the best.”

By the time the paint dried, they had prepped and painted two interior rooms while repairing cracks in inner walls, a damaged ceiling, and a rotted threshold. They also added mortar to gaping brickwork, and replaced warped decking. All of this in addition to the exterior painting, and the work was exemplary. More importantly for my wife, they removed a snake that fell off the garage door as they were painting it.

In brief interludes—a water break, a breather from intense North Carolina heat, general clean up—I spoke to Jorge in Spanish. I never pass up an opportunity to practice. He complimented my “acento.” In turn, I expressed my satisfaction with his good work.

With the increasing presence of Latinos in Henderson, I’ve heard occasional sniping comments about “the language,” as in they don’t speak “it”—it, of course, English. In Henderson (as I suspect is true elsewhere), the children of Latino immigrants learn English rapidly, even when Spanish is solely spoken at home. But if the barrier of language is what primarily separates some residents of North Carolina from others, then I want to help dismantle it or, at the very least, help them negotiate it. It was for this reason I underwent the hospital’s volunteer orientation.

As far-fetched as the anglo fear of a Spanish conquest strikes me, it might be more conceivable if everyone who spoke Spanish was culturally similar. Descriptors like “Latino” falsely suggest a single people, providing only a telescoped they. At best, “Latino” loosely clumps culturally diverse peoples who speak many languages derived from Spanish. Moreover, when we overcategorize, does this not blind us to the individual? If I say “Latina” rather than “Senora Gavilan,” am I not forcing her into a them, leaving me subservient to a bias I might fail to recognize?

Craig Ferguson, comedic host of The Late Late Show (I TiVo it), ends each night asking, “What did we learn tonight?” a humorous lead-in to signing off. But the question is more broadly relevant to my experiences with Latinos in Henderson. What have I learned thus far?

I’ve become more aware of the humanity, collectively and individually, of people striving for a better life. Rather than ennobling them (the Dances with Wolves effect), the humanity I detect is human, and in that, warts and all, it brings them closer to me. To us.

I’ve also become increasingly aware of North Carolinian generosity through our programs to keep the undocumented from drowning beneath waves of unremitting medical bills. The experience has increased my sense of pride in North Carolina. Behind the public grumbling against them, we do care.
And I’ve learned the Spanish word for “disrobing,” i.e., quitarse, as in “Por favor, quitese su ropa.” Please remove your clothes. Perhaps I should explain.

I was asked to assist Senor and Senora Camarillo in her preparation for an endoscopy, an outpatient procedure designed to visually examine the upper gastrointestinal tract. An attractive couple, they seemed a good match, her quiet assertiveness balancing his courtly reserve. She asked the questions, then, they would confer. Their hope was that her doctor might finally be able to explain continuous GI distress; mine—that I might alleviate her presurgical anxiety by explaining the procedimiento and guiding her through each stage of the process until the OR nurse took over.

I accompanied her to the surgical-prep bay, interpreting the nurse’s instructions up to the moment she was to disrobe and don a surgical gown. In the middle of my instructions, I forgot the verb for disrobing. Without flinching, Sra. Camarillo reminded me it was “quitarse.”

Let me quickly add: when I asked Sra. Camarillo, per the nurse’s instructions, to disrobe, I also requested that she immediately put on a hospital gown. I experienced no difficulty remembering the verb “to put on.” I thanked her for her assistance and left.

I then returned to the husband in the waiting room, and explained where his wife was in the process—omitting the part about disrobing.

What else have I learned?

I’ve learned we’ve experienced an influx of people much like our ancestors—possibly the most desperate but likely the bravest. Would I, in similar straits, have the courage to uproot myself to, say Brazil, no matter the opportunity, where I’d become a foreigner without the language, social connections, or cultural acceptance? Where at the caprice of economic downturn I become suspect, perhaps viewed as a drag on native advancement, especially if I’m undocumented?

North Carolina is experiencing an economic downturn. In Vance County, the unemployment percentage is high and rising with the loss of major industries (tobacco, textiles, and manufacturing)—the industries that initially attracted Latino workers. Faced with the impact of this recession, some Latinos will leave; others have already left. To succeed, one must first survive. But the stouthearted, the ones with fiber, will abide. Sra. Gavilan and her bebe, Jorge and his campaneros, Sra. Camarillo and her husband—all of them are still here, seeking to find and fit a niche. They will remain, eventually becoming fully fledged Americans.

They will become we.

(The names in this piece are fictional; the individuals exist.)

 
A Snapshot of Morganton PDF Print E-mail
Written by Joan Cannon   
Wednesday, 16 September 2009 23:47

A day came when we realized that something was going to have to give, as they say. We weren't going to be able to stay in our beloved house for what might be a long time ahead unless we were going to end up depending on and beholden to our children. After months of searching and visiting, we landed in Morganton, a lovely small town in the foothills.

We tacitly decided to ignore unstated questions about race relations in a kind of ostrich mindset. We bought a house on an unpretentious but pleasant street in an old part of town, and my husband began some renovations. In the parking lot of Lowe's, we observed two young men, one black and one white, approaching each other. With sudden whoops of happy recognition, they met and embraced and were still talking with considerable animation when we left our car to go into the store.

"We wouldn't see that in Connecticut," my husband remarked.

We weren't so ignorant that we didn't realize that we had dropped into what might be an atypical Southern town, and thought we were fortunate, but wherever we've been, from Wilmington to Asheville with many a stop in between, we've seen that we're happy to have arrived in the New South.

Before our move, still in southern New England, we heard a conversation between the marketing person for the retirement community where we live and a daughter of prospects. It took place in a moderately upscale condominium community for those over fifty-five. The young woman said she couldn't wait to move down to Morganton because she had visited there, and in a restaurant had observed a child answering an adult with, "Yes, ma'am," and she couldn't wait to get to a neighborhood with manners like that.

Our first visits to retail establishments gave us as great a culture shock as anything else has. Clerks actually approach a customer and ask if they can help. If you come from a northeastern city, you can scarcely believe your ears. The attitude of strangers took some getting used to. I walked the dog in our quiet neighborhood and was greeted from passing pickup trucks as well as by other pedestrians as if the people knew me. In the local wellness center, my husband was asked how he was doing as he climbed the stairs to the gym.

We're not so naïve as to assume this civility is profoundly heartfelt, but it nevertheless is so courteous as to make us and everyone else want to react in kind. And that perhaps is what is most special about North Carolina. It seems to occupy an enviable place where homage to tradition and pride of place manage to exist in balance with habitual politeness, modern political sensibilities, and a heartening number of open minds.

Our families have heritages of which we're proud too, so we understand what we find here. We've been humbled by the well-documented failures of our educations as we've attended Historical Society meetings and lectures at the Burke County Public Library on the Revolutionary War. We didn't realize how much of that conflict was actually won here. We're touched by the willingness of the "locals" to accept these Yankees and treat us as though we might be able to learn how to fit in. Thank you, North Carolina, for your gentle sons and daughters and your mountains and piedmont and sandhills and barrier islands, your arts and crafts, and especially, your literature.

 
Revitalization PDF Print E-mail
Written by Sandra Adams   
Tuesday, 30 June 2009 20:08

Magnificent turn-of-the-century porches disappear,
leaving behind the site where families sat, passed
in and out day after day, every sign of life erased
that once dwelled inside.

The well-built structures fell so that someone might
sell modern houses that partly mimic old styles.
Cheaper to raze than repair, local government rules,
fails to enforce building codes of the state.

In a row, condos rise along the river,
warning riders of the bypass what lies on the other side.
Streets unrecognizable from former days,
where asphalt was unearthed, red bricks were placed.

The old courthouse sits across from its newer addition.
Nearby, an up-to-date jail under construction.
Most of the old stores empty, except those occupied
by bail bondsmen and attorneys.

The city removed one store to make room for a street.
Restaurants come to cater to the courthouse crowd.
The aged train depot now holds those with a mission,
which they purport is to save downtown.

 
Rufina’s Party PDF Print E-mail
Written by Nancy Tilly   
Wednesday, 10 June 2009 14:19

Though I leave the door open for her, she always knocks and I say the usual “Hola!” She asks how I am and we visit a few minutes before she starts dusting and vacuuming. “Senora Nancy,” she says, “we having a baby shower for Ilda Sunday.” Rufina’s thirty-year-old daughter Hilda is having her first child. “We want you and Senor Eben to come.”

I’m honored she’s asked us. Rufina is among the people I respect most—for her dependability and pride in her work, her natural good spirits, but even more for her sensitivity to nuance. On one of her first days she called from the next room, “Senora Nancy?” and I said, “Que?”—in my rusty 1950s Spanish. She appeared in the kitchen door wagging her index finger at me. “No, no,” she said and explained that “Que?” is not the way to answer someone you respect. I must say, “Mande,” tell me.

Now, a year later, I’m used to her cheerful corrections on small but important matters of protocol and etiquette, of grammar, verb number, and tense. The teacher in me sees what a good teacher she’d have made, and I realize her gentle tone points to the way she raised three successful children in a new country. Hilda has a BA from North Carolina State University; Aremi married a carpenter and now stays at home with her two boys; and Romancito is studying at the Pittsburgh Culinary Institute. I wish I’d known Rufina when I made my own motherly corrections—they’d have been more confident and effective, above all, kinder. Rufina says when you live with someone you have to use a good tone with them. I store up her tone and attitude for my mythical grandchildren.

That Sunday, bearing gifts, we drive the mile to Rufina’s. She and her husband, Roman, live in a neighborhood of small houses, some rented to students, others occupied by working people in Carrboro, Chapel Hill’s sister town. Eben and I pull up to their yellow house, circled by tulips and daffodils, its front porch colorful with baskets of red and pink geraniums. Between the house and the Jehovah’s Witness church next door stretches a grassy yard that’s also theirs. Many cars are parked on the emerald green that stretches back to Roman’s vegetable garden.

From the other side of the house comes lively Latino music. Roman has hitched a white tent on metal poles to their garage. Tables on one side hold plates, napkins, forks, and cups, and they’ve set up enough folding chairs in a rough circle for a crowd. We meet Hilda, who introduces us to several couples and her husband, Luis. I greet him by name and he tells me, “It’s Louis.” I remember Rufina saying her family members prefer the American pronunciation, and say, “Hi, Louis.” Hilda asks if we’d like some horchata, a sweet rice drink. Eben thinks of his high glucose and I think calories, so we settle for water instead. Hilda brings us plates of food Rufina has cooked. She’s checked ahead to ask if we like tamales. We do. They’re muy picante, but delicious. So are the tostadas and tacos.

People keep arriving, most of them couples with children. Two young women sit across from us, slim Lakshmi, and Nadine, who is dark and plump. Like Hilda, Nadine works for Duke University. She grew up in Charleston, South Carolina, and isn’t Mexican but—she hesitates before she says it—“Palestinian.” I wonder if she’s afraid we’ll react badly to her background and tell her about my old divinity school friend Jan, who adopted a wounded teenager on the Left Bank and raised the money to fly him to Boston for surgery that eased the last months of his life.

As we talk, I feel a pang of loss for my Atlanta family’s Fourth of July picnics at my aunt and uncle’s place, The Farm, the picnic tables loaded down under old pecan trees. By now the aunts and uncles have all died, and most of my cousins have moved to Florida. It feels good to be part of a family group again, though I wouldn’t have guessed it would be a Mexican-American family. Twenty years ago I was shocked when I first saw Hispanic men in the old A&P across Highway 15-501. I knew California had Latino workers, and in Chicago I signed petitions for Cesar Chavez, but migrant workers in Chapel Hill? My mind did the same somersault it did at the University of Chicago when I introduced myself to the dean of students and found he was a young man of color.

These shocks were necessary, I think, to challenge my Old South attitudes. In sixth grade in 1946, in Winder, Georgia, I discovered Southerners had owned slaves. Unbelieving, I interrogated Mother. “There were good slave owners and bad ones,” she said. “Ours were the good ones.” That was the first time she told her family’s much-trumpeted story of the Nelson family butler who buried the silver when he heard the Yankees were on the way. Mother told the story as evidence our family had treated Negroes kindly.

In sixth grade, I believed her. She’d befriended two of our maids, Amagene and Lizzie, and when Lizzie came to her lake house they went out fishing in Mother’s tiny boat, the Me Too, made lunch together, and ate in the dining room. By the 1970s Mother’s racial attitude was tinged with irony for me. She treated Lizzie and Amagene with more courtesy and sympathy, I thought, than she did us, her three children.

But her attitude toward the black women who worked for us showed me the good sense of racial equality that helped me become a liberal on racial issues. My two years at divinity school marked a U-turn in my life. I thought I’d arrive at an easy acceptance of other people, whatever their color or background. But even now I can trip over Atlanta attitudes so deeply ingrained they lead me against those ideals. I’ve spent my life revising my Old South self.

At Rufina’s, another Anglo couple arrives, with a seven-month-old baby. The man introduces himself, we shake hands, and he introduces his wife, Michelle, who is a teacher. They’ve migrated from Syracuse, New York, and see the South mainly as a place with a milder climate. He would never guess that we Old South Southerners see ourselves in terms of ancestors, family silver, Southern hospitality, and the obligations of noblesse oblige, which says we’ve received many gifts and are obliged to use them to help those less fortunate, whatever their race or class. With such bred-in-the-bones attitudes we Old South types separate ourselves from more recent immigrants, whether from Mexico, Syracuse, or any other Yankee place. That’s what my Old South upbringing tells me.

My twenty-first-century self rolls its eyes at this lapse. Noblesse oblige is so nineteenth century.Louis takes charge of the newcomers’ baby. The boy is not thrilled to leave Mom but doesn’t cry. I tell Louis he looks at home with the baby, and he says he has “a lot of nephews.” I ask how many, and he says, “Fourteen.” Someone calls out that his aunt had twenty children, and everyone laughs. Soon the baby is smiling and playing what we Southerners call peep-eye with Louis.

People are pouring in now. Hilda and Rufina make sure everyone has a drink and a plate of food. Eben and I had planned to go to a movie, but when I tell Rufina we’re going, she says, “We going to have games.” So we stay. One of the women passes out small baby-blue pins we get to keep as long as we don’t cross our legs or ankles. Catch someone when they forget, and you can take their pin. I see this as our collective prayer for Hilda to have an easy labor. Whoever collects the most pins earns a prize. Eben and I soon lose ours, to Nadine, who sports a large collection across her broad bosom.

For the next game, Louis dresses a baby doll in its full outfit, including bib, while blindfolded. He’s a good sport about using diaper cream too, then Pamper-ing the doll, pulling on blue pants, a shirt, and the bib. We all applaud. Rufina gets two people to hold the ends of a line with twenty clothespins attached, and we women take turns naming things a baby needs as we pull one clothespin for each item. We get ten seconds but can use only one hand. I pluck four. The quick-thinking winner triumphs with nine.

The party’s still going, music playing, the same three-year-old pushing a gigantic Tonka truck up and down the grassy yard, children tossing Frisbees when we leave. Rufina thanks us for coming, and we thank her for having us. Hilda and Roman see us to the car amid thanks on both sides. We say what a great party it was—parties are a universal language, I see—and tell Roman, again, how happy we are that he and Rufina became citizens last October. The four of us smile as we say goodbye in the waning light, and I think as we drive home that all of us are faces of the New South.

 
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Hat's Off!

..... to Ainslie Uhl. She has been invited to do a monthly column for an online publication/ organization; the series is called, "The Compass Rose". The two inaugural essays are on the site now and describe the difficulty of leaving North Carolina for California last year.

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